The final result, less basing and soon to be delivered flags |
I think Austrian infantry are a great target for this sort of sculpt design because hobbyists often shy away from them as an option simply because of the intimidating prospect of painting such an army. Let's look at the 2 major challenges:
1. Painting white: White is a scary main color to be working in, especially for novice painters. First, you have to get a consistent, strong coat and avoid chalkiness, something that is going to be hard without either spraying or many coats. But once you get past that you have a second problem - contrast. The Austrian Uniform in particular has several layers of white and this all makes it quite difficult to maintain strong "black-lining" or any other kind of shading that prevents the model from looking like a white blob especially from tabletop distance. I will discuss both how I painted it and how I kept contrast.
My initial experiment with different shading/wash options: Left to right we have Vallejo Black, Vallejo Grey, GW Sepia, and GW Earthshade |
2. Size of the Project: Austrians are often portrayed in oversized units withing several game systems to represent their huge battalions relative to their peers, and this means that there are more to paint. Painting 4-500 of the line alone at 15mm scale is quite the task. The solution to this is to be strategic about the project and avoid getting into lots of detail work - but this is complicated by the army being white.
The bare metal blob |
Now let me get to how I approached things...
STEP 1 : White Spray
I start all my austrian models with 1 airbrush coat of vallejo white primer followed by vallejo air aged white. You could use any white or off white spray can for this, though ideally the main color you want to paint white in should be similar to the spray color.
STEP 2: Brown Layer
I usually paint my models from the innermost layer to the outermost, and I think that's particularly important for Napoleonics where there are so many straps on top of everything else. So I start here with a brown (reaper muddy brown but this could really be anything) that covers all flesh, hair, and the musket. You don't have to do the flesh with a brown layer, but I find it helps especially with busier models. In retrospect for this new line I could probably get away with just doing flesh without a brown undercoat because the hands and head are not as enlarged as in other lines.
Step 1 and 2 Completed - Front |
Step 1 and 2 Completed - Back |
This step just covers my 1 or 2 layers of paint for all the other soldierly accessories on the model as well as the flesh ( reaper fair skin shadow). I usually do the backpack,water bottle ( both vallejo flat earth) and the roll (reaper cloudy grey) first, then I do the hat, cartridge box, and gaiters black mixed with grey for some contrast ( in my case pure reaper black with mixed in reaper stormy grey). I then do other little bits like the yellow hat decoration, the green leaves and the metal bits. Hair and mustaches will go in too, though if you are in a hurry then you could just leave all the hair dark brown.
STEP 4: Wash the model
This is key because you really are counting on getting contrast here, I don't think directly shading in lines for large amounts of 15mm models is at all reasonable, but for this white uniform a strong contrast is still needed. You saw already I experimented with different washes, and ultimately I decided to go with GW Agrax earthshade. I feel that the brown goes well with the off white I am working with. You could use black if you wanted but I personally reserve that for models with "colder" colors like my french, or very strong colors like the British. I found that the vallejo washes gave a very grainy looking finish, so I didn't go for them at all.
Step 3 and 4 completed - Front |
Step 3 and 4 completed -Back |
After the wash, I add the facings, and this is the first time we need to be careful to preserve as much shading as possible. Try to get the facings colored in one clean stroke, and prevent it from coloring the recesses. I used reaper violet red for this particular unit, but you can of course do whatever color you want. The name of the game from now on is to preserve contrast, not fill it in.
Step 5 finished - Front |
Step 5 finished - Back |
STEP 6: Paint white for the first time
So despite the fact this is an army of white, you should only be brushing on white as the final layer. For me, this is really broken down into to steps - first, layer on the uniform white, which in this case is the off-white vallejo air aged white. Here it is particularly important to not lose shading -- remember that it will be very hard to get back, so don't paint to "complete" the white, just paint as if to highlight it, avoiding recesses entirely.
I then take pure white and do all the straps on the model. This could be done in the same white as the uniform, but I like doing this extra step to gain contrast and make the model a little bit more interesting.
To summarize, you could highlight all the white as one color, or you could do two colors, one for the uniform and one for the straps. You could even skip this step entirely, if you are comfortable with the "tint" look that I know many army painter "dippers" are. Just keep in mind the straps should be a lighter white than the uniform. I also painted the rifle strap white - I realize they were not always white but I find it goes well with the model.
Below you have the finished product:
Step 6 (painting completed) - Front |
Step 6 (painting completed) - Back |
Regarding the models, I'm quite happy with how they turned out considering we designed and cast these all in house as amateurs. The goal was to get something that was easy to paint because my primary use for these is to make Napoleonics more accessible to the students we run campus events for (see https://taskchairgeneral.blogspot.com/2018/02/battle-of-leipzig-after-action-report.html).
In that regard I think even this first most rudimentary attempt will serve well, as I was not getting slowed down in detail painting, and was very easily able to access facings and other key unit distinctions. Being that there are 70+ sculpts ready for our first run of 5000, I'm excited to see the rest of these.